Parade Christopher Kane – Spring-Summer 2008

Its parade will have finally taken place… The bad pranksters who stole a third of its collection, whatever the reason for their act of vandalism, could slow the rise of the young Scottish designer. Christopher Kane, instead of indulging in the aesthetic neo Versace debuted – with which he had stolen the heart of fashion editors – with conviction surveyed in a new direction which it is the only guide. At the risk of losing some way, Kane makes no concessions and still surprises once…

For summer 2008, no micro lengths, Velcro strips flashy, sexy pinup devil or glamorous jet set, Christopher Kane defies our forecasts. Difficult to follow this artist who proves by this third installment that its universe is much less stereotyped than might be expected. From a locker room A / W 2007-2008 almost entirely of mini-dresses, Kane developed by another vision of women: less icon more trash, more real, more youthful too.

Note that the designer’s work is always centered around one or two themes, and then follows multiple variations. This season, they are flying and the python because they inspired him. Flying it scatters randomly, pushing the established order a petticoat and reinterpreting the rustling beneath our great-grandmothers. These romantic ruffles, torn or perforated shamelessly, lose their naivete and gain in intensity. chiffon, leather, lurex, matter is abundant, feminine and somewhat rebellious. Small trash girls, but always elegant, is the alchemy achieved by Kane who manages with extremely connotations and opposing elements (such as python, frayed jeans or sporty cotton jersey), to create a disarming harmony.

The parade at first can be confusing – even displeasing – but it is to be enjoyed, to calmly contemplate without seeking trends or things to steal instantly to endorse. We must decant a minimum these strange looks from wanton wax dolls, anachronistic boots and do not be put off by the details, cuts, associations seem a priori already seen, obsolete or outdated.

Because the genius of Kane lies precisely in detail: nothing is overdone or repetition, each end of figure is important. A rounded shape, a flying dive … and everything takes a contemporary look. Kane plays subtlety, flying as wealthy as they are not thicker than a veil Marian, the fineness of muslin is called to order by conceptual sweaters or blouses stuck rigidly mounted strict. No free marshmallow femininity, Kane is demanding, precise, unambiguous, it does not.

He pushes the fashionistas to analyze, to enter his world, sometimes hermetic associates when torn jeans and reptilian prints, sometimes fascinating when it dares to approach the classic romanticism of parts to extract the timeless essence, sometimes desirable when he worked dark shades making them attractive and enigmatic. More London an Italian, this parade stuff the character Christopher Kane, and makes us desire result…