The Hermes scarf turns 70, but the house Hermes, meanwhile, is much older, with 170 years of existence the meter. Years of painstaking care first devoted to saddles horses, leading in 2007 to 14 different trades, the authenticity and excellence of craft illustrate the luxury perfectly with the French for many fashionistas…
Hermes is an epic, a family story that endures, a passion that is passed in the genes and allowed home, created in 1837, to evolve smoothly until today. Yet at the start, which was thought that a simple German emigre settling in France to mount a factory saddler and harness-maker is the cause of a line of men who would lead an empire, symbolizing alone some idea of France?
It’s in 1837 that Thierry Hermes moved to Paris. 30 years later, the excellence of his work made him get the first medal class at the Universal Exhibition of 1867. This then propels the Hermes under the spotlight, Tsar Nicolas 2 control him many trappings and exceptions stool. Hermes gradually radiates prestige of those who became his regular customers: the kings and presidents worldwide. Emile Charles succeeds his father, then it was the turn of the son of Charles Emile, Adolf, to take the reins of the company.
We are in the early twentieth century, the horses gave way to automobiles. Hermes turned to the body and begins to export. It was during this period that Adolphe and his brother Émile-Maurice Hermes and develop the position of the leather goods sector. Bags, belts and gloves become a showcase for the brand, are added shortly after accessories for sports and travel. The brothers, including Émile-Maurice are keen on innovation, curious about everything, and they will be the first to introduce the zipper in France.
It is from this creative emulsion was born in 1937 the famous Hermes scarf. Measuring 90×90 cm, it is quickly adopted by VIPs of the time: Jacky Kennedy or Grace Kelly become unconditional client Hermes. The classic home in terms of leather is also called the “Kelly”, and was the favorite bag of the Princess of Monaco, although contrary to popular belief, it was not created for it.
The origin this bag is indeed much more distant. In 1892 that is introduced to the market by Hermes, a bag to collect the effects of a rider, from the saddle boots: this bag has the name “Top belt.” A few decades later, the model is evolving towards a smaller product for women, it will take its final shape when it adds a loop and it will still lose a few centimeters. This is the version that will be adopted by Grace Kelly, who became emblematic of Parisian house.
1945 is officially filed the “carriage” logo that will represent the brand. In 1978, the small son of Émile-Maurice Hermes, Jean-Louis Dumas, who becomes the CEO of the company with this idea: excelling in all trades that are under the Hermes hat, watches through the upholstery and tableware. But also to develop other sectors such as the ready-to-wear or silverware…
It dedicates a love and respect for special crafts, precise gesture, research, intuition , all these factors that can sublimate an idea. All these things are betting to make a butt briefcase, calendar cover, a suitcase, a Birkin or even a perfume as the carriage, unique and incomparable quality.
Hours and hours of work are needed in the making of Hermes products, some operations can only be carried out by hand and require extreme precision and a skill that can be acquired after a long apprenticeship. This is why Hermes, maintaining its technical and taste for perfection over time has lost none of its aura.
In 2004, after attending five years ago to 35% in the company of Jean Paul Gaultier, Hermes replaces Martin Margiela by him at the head of the artistic direction of ready-to-wear woman. More than one will be surprised by this choice adventurous going to coexist under one name that which is considered the enfant terrible of fashion, classy and chic image of the cavalier house …
But this is to underestimate the talent of Jean Paul Gaultier to believe that he could squander mind Hermes. On the contrary, combining classic elegance and contemporary aesthetics, he has succeeded in Hermes in the fashion world as well as n’importe which house prestigious officiating in ready-to-wear, such as Givenchy, Celine, or even Chanel.
Hermes is not afraid to hustle a bit codes artistically. This new course of action, a bit irreverent, seems to bring him luck and find takers on the luxury market. The genius of Hermes is to achieve combine modernity and tradition. Thus it has emerged as artistic director of the women’s silk petulant Bali Barret, who dusted off things and is seen receiving the enthusiastic support of management.
She addressed the thorny issue “square “with simplicity and frankness. For a product while it is iconic, through the ages without a wrinkle, you have to get off his pedestal and make him live in his time. For her, the Hermes scarf should be the place where the diverse and varied artistic expression can be expressed freely and tell a story…
Telling a story is also a fundamental concept in Hermes universe. Hermes advertising campaigns are always narrative and spin on the same idea, which is the theme of the year, such as “Over the River”, “Color and fantasy” or “The ribbon leads the dance.” All themes that guide the production Hermes time of a year…
But back to Bali Barret, who for 70 years of the house changes the sacrosanct dimensions of Hermes scarf, and invites the most disparate characters to make their mark on the silk scarf. Adored by the Japanese, the Americans and almost all women of the world, the square is dipped in a broth of innovations in terms of graphics and thought that the girl today – and his mother – could s’ find there…
if he keeps his highly upscale pedigree, and whatever color he dons is that it still requires two years of work and over 140 manipulations before ending up in store. The luxury is here in the requirement almost unreal that governs the square of this manufacturing process.
The drawings that will cover silk are 6 in number and are renewed each season. Once selected, they are broken down into different layers, layer, color, stencil in mind. Each drawing will then be available in 10 different color ranges. Then the silk is printed layer by layer, and scarves will then cut and hemmed by hand. Each step is carefully controlled, the slightest defect, sometimes difficult to detect with the naked eye, directly projects the square to the basket.
The Hermes scarf is no longer synonymous with snobbery or rigid appearance to conventional elegance. With time the port has been democratized, not that he infused the different layers of the population, but those who wear it do not hesitate to desecrate it by tying it on a frayed jeans.
In 2006, one that had Hermes brought into the 21st century, Jean-Louis Dumas, retired after 40 years of loyal service and has left his role as artistic director … his son. The story continues…
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